We'd decided to tackle the ring of kerry as the guidebook promised us breathtaking views of rugged cliffs. What the guidebook didn't warn us about was the fact that the roads would be crowded with all manner of things we had to try and dodge, other cars, tourist buses, prams, bikes, dogs, triathalons and a persistent low lying cloud that meant visibility was nil.
Nah I lie a bit. Well not really. When we set off visibility was good and we did get to see some amazing scenery as we left killarney and climbed towards the coast. I was rambling eloquently (or not so eloquently as I hadn't been to Blarney yet) about the cuteness of an Irish road that was just a road with nothing on the sides, just the road and trees. Later I would be cursing this as I held onto my car seat in terror. As we climbed the sun disappeared, the rain came back and the cloud descended. I kept telling Rohan about the bits that were meant to be breathtaking views, but as we couldn't see the taillights of the car in front we figured we'd need to use our imagination to fill in the gaps. Still with no visibility I also couldn't see the places where we might hurtle off the edge to our death.
As we got near sneem we saw handwritten signs scrawled warning us of a triathalon - our suspicions that this wasn't an overly professional event was confirmed when we saw the riders - how had they managed to find so many people to not only impersonate the michelon tyre man but also get them to enter a race? Now we had the added bonus of trying to dodge them in amongst the buses, dogs, etc etc
Yet again I trusted the guidebook (why oh why do I do this?). It said no visit is complete without going to see Staigue Fort, one of the oldest and finest stone forts in Ireland. Once we were on the road we realised it was one car wide with trees everywhere - ahhh what happens if we meet another car? Its ok, rohan the voice of reason responded, if we meet another car we just reverse back until we find a little turnout, they pass and then we keep going. All good in theory until another car came hurtling towards us at the speed of light and then slammed on the breaks as it almost crashed into us. I think my fingerprints are still imprinted in the leather of the passat. Finally we made it to the fort and yes the guidebook was right. It was very cool and impressive, built in early AD, most likely by a wealthy landowner to keep out robbers. I figure the road would do that.
When we finally made it back to killarney alive, I decided we needed a drink so we left the car at the hotel and wandered into town. It seems thousands of other people had driven the ring of kerry and also needed a drink to calm their nerves. I was also slightly concerned by the busloads of men who seemed to be arriving and falling into the pubs. Then came the buses filled with women, surrounding one who was the hen, the others all trailing around her and in they went too. It seems like killarney may be a boys and girls bus trip paradise - I had a sense things were going to get messy in killarney tonight.
We took shelter in the lough inn where we had some hearty irish fare and I realised that clearly I am of Irish heritage, the mashed potatoes were as salty as my dad makes! Cabbage, bacon, soda bread....what more does one need in a meal?
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